Not Stoked about Mt. Stokes Marlborough Sounds

Marlborough Sounds is a huge maze of underwater valleys surrounded by lush mountains. Imagine what seems like hundreds of islands, peninsulas, and sounds cutting every which way. This area at the North part of the South island makes up 1/5 of all of New Zealand’s coastline (which is considerable given NZ is two big islands). I enjoyed my drive through the curvy roads of the sounds on my way to the large port, Picton, where I was staying for the night.

I woke up eager the next morning to sun filled blue skies so was eager to get a challenging hike in by summiting Mount Stokes. This hike promised amazing views of the sounds from the highest point in the region. I drove two hours on the most windy road I have been on to date. As I approached the mountain I was disappointed after the long drive to see the mountaintop was enclosed in the only cloud in sight. But given the long drive to get there, my need for some good exercise, and my luck with weather (surely the cloud would move on) I headed out on the hike. Starting on the trail was an eerie experience to begin with. This area gets heavy rains so was extremely mossy and just smelled musty, the mist everywhere from being trapped in the cloud didn’t add to the ambiance. While in ways it was a cool experience, it just felt a bit off-putting. From time to time, I would get a small break in the clouds and be teased with the views I had hoped to see.

The entire hike I was very careful with my step. In terms of trail conditions this was one of the worst (the first few pics below were the trail). The ‘trail’ was barely that, but just hiking markers taking you through extremely root-bound and mossy ‘pathways’ while gaining significant elevation at times. About 2/3 of the way up, I decided to turn around, the first time I have ever quit a hike. But I knew it was going to be a long and slow way back to avoid injury and it was clear there was going to be no view at the top. I literally was thinking in my head what a lackluster blog post this would be and how it was the worst hike I had ever been on. I was relieved to make it past the tough part and was in the flatter, last 10 minutes of the hike. I took a step, the old wet roots that were the trail deteriorated quickly below my foot and sent me sliding a short 5 feet down the embankment. I heard a popping noise, but thought it was a root breaking. I stood up to a sore ankle which I thought I had just twisted, but as I put more pressure on it I thought I had a pretty bad sprain. Otherwise, I seemed uninjured. I slowly, using my hiking poles as crutches, started hobbling my way down the last bit of the trail –it hurt. Then before my eyes a miracle occurred. After 4 hours on the trail without seeing another person – I saw an American man and his daughter making their way down the trail. They saw I was in trouble and quickly came to my aide – helping me through the last bit of the trail (which parts would have been nearly impossible for me to navigate alone given the steepness approaching the trailhead). They realized I needed to get to the hospital and couldn’t drive. He drove my car with me in the back, after they got me elevated and pumped with ibuprofen. She drove theirs, for TWO hours down windy roads to the hospital. I really don’t know what I would have done without them, so very thankful. As you likely know by now (I am writing this entry 6 weeks later) I fractured my fibula, first break ever. While the experience was a bit traumatic, I will always remember the kindness of strangers. From Maddie and her dad who saved me on the trail, to the people at the hospital, to the boy in the hospital lobby who drove me in my rental car to a nearby hotel, the hotel manager who drove him back and me to pick up dinner, the security guard at the hospital who later drove my passport to me when they realized they failed to give it back to me. The list goes on and on. People are amazing!! I am so very lucky and grateful!!

All Marlborough Sounds:

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Abel Tasman National Park

Abel Tasman National Park is located in the North West part of the South Island. Imagine miles and miles of lush hilly forest lined at the coast with isolated golden beaches of all shapes and sizes contrasting with the turquoise waters. My pictures do it no justice as I had overcast (while still warm) days here and this type of landscape is best photographed by plane to get a sense of the pure beauty. I initially had planned a day kayak trip the first day, however was feeling under the weather and had to cancel. The tide varies more significantly here than I have ever seen. This makes getting to the water difficult at times as the beach goes from none to a mile out. The solution, I funny experience where you board a boat on a trailer, are taking on the road, out the beach, and launched in the water. The boat ride gave me the first glimpse of beach after beach and dropped me off at my floating hostel for the night. 2 houseboats. I enjoyed camping out at the front of the boat reading before the other guests joined us and was thrilled to get my own ‘captains room’ for my bed. Pretty great deal for a hostel. The boat also provided us a fantastic BBQ dinner and breakfast the next day. I highly recommend staying here if you head to hike the Abel Tasman.

The next day I woke early, took the dingy to the beach and started my hike back to the trailhead from the Anchorage campground (approx. 8 miles away). The trail had minimal incline and was one of the most peaceful walks I have ever been on. You are in the rainforest like surroundings but with views and side trails to the many beaches along the way. The sound of the chirruping cicadas, buzzing bumble bees, and singing birds was at times deafening. It was the most surreal experience. The beaches and trails were so untouched given you need to walk or kayak miles to get to them. This is one of the things I love most about New Zealand. I would definitely like to return to Abel Tasman when I am feeling better and do more walking and some kayaking. What a beautiful place!

 

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The West Coast & 2 National Parks

I had a very long day of driving starting in the town of Hokitika, which I found quite charming less the oversaturation and marketing of the jade or ‘green stone’ stores that this town is known for. I started off my morning combing the beach for the famous green stones as it had rained heavily the night prior and I was told this is the best time to find them. I found quite a few, but sadly they were too heavy for me to haul around with me. The beach was also covered in drift wood like I have never seen before. I started working my way up the West coast – first stop was Greymouth a not very attractive little town with some great seaside. The ride North was just gorgeous, it reminded me a lot of the great ocean road in Melbourne. The windy road offered breathtaking view after breathtaking view of the ocean.

My first major stop was Punakaki National Park. This park is known for its pancake rock formations (called that as they think they look like stacked pancakes). There are also blowholes in this area but none were too fantastic as I was not visiting at high tide. The park walkway offered some great views of the sea and interesting rock formations. Next I stopped at Cape Foulwind where there was supposed to be a large seal colony. While the beachwalk was nice, the whole 4 seals I saw was a bit of a disappointment, but there was a young pup next to her mom so that was sweet.

I made a quick stop in the town of Westport to drop my bags at my gorgeous hostel (which sadly I spent no time in). The city seemed cute and I definitely prefer it to Greymouth. I was in a rush to head up along the coast further to Kahurangi National park. This area was clearly dairy cow territory as I saw and smelled them everywhere. This crew was doing a determined walk to food/milking and were a bit stunned when I stopped to take their picture. They were so funny. I picked up a young couple from Prague at the beginning of the gravel road leading to the Oparara Basin, home of the largest arches in New Zealand. We gritted our teeth as the rental car bumped along the never ending 9 mile road. I was so glad I picked them up as the road was so bad I may have turned around for fear I would get stuck alone. We finally arrived and first hiked to the Moria Gate arch. The hike itself was beautiful through the lush rainforest. Birds were chirping and this little guy (a Toutouwai) was friendly and fearless. He looked at us with such curiosity and almost jumped into my hand. He even led us down the track for a while until he sadly scurried off into the underbrush. This encounter made me so happy, cute little guy. As we got to the end of the hike there was a sign explaining you needed a flashlight and to go through a cave to get to the arch (um…would have been nice to say that at the BEGINNING of the hike). It was a bit creepy but we sent the guy first, using the flashlight app on my iphone for light and he survived so in we went. So glad we did, the cave was small and cool and let you out under the limestone arch. It was breathtaking and so fun to explore. It’s rumored this location may have been used in filming the Hobbit, but I have yet to confirm. I know someone with a nearly photographic memory who quite likes that series so will ask him.

Next we did another hike to the larger of the arches in this area, the Oparara arch. The reflections along the way in the brown tarns were the best yet. The arch was so massive it can’t be captured in a photo (600 feet long, 150 wide, 111 high). It was back to the road of death (a bit of an exaggeration but it was a horrible ride) and we exited JUST in time to catch the last seconds of the amazing sunset while being eaten by the lovely sandfly. This put me on the road back to Westport much later than expected and after dark. The almost 2 hour drive through windy roads in the dark was nerve wracking, but I took my time and managed to dodge the 7 bunnies, 4 possums, and a few birds. My car looked like a bug funeral ground when I woke up the next day – I sure home most of them were those damned sand flies.

All West Coast S Island Slideshow:

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